1) General
The UNICLIC-system is a patented system for
installing FLEXURA wooden floors without
glue.
For optimal results, it is imperative that
the installation instructions are strictly
followed and that only FLEXURA ACCESSORIES
ARE USED, i.e.:
a)FLEXURA INSTALLATION SET (spacer blocks,
Uniclic tapping block and pinch bar),
b) FLEXURA UNDERFLOOR SYSTEM.
c) FLEXURA MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS.
Flexura wooden flooring is not suitable for
use in humid areas such as bathrooms,
saunas, etc.
Check the contents of all packages before
and during the installation. Floorboards
with visible defects may not be installed.
Floorboards with the UNICLIC system can be
installed in 2 different ways:
a) The floorboards can be rotated to
fit into each other (tongue into groove, or
groove into tongue). However, the easiest
way is to fit the tongue into the groove.
(The following installation instructions are
based on using this installation technique
as much as possible. Installing the groove
onto the tongue is only necessary in a few
specific cases).
Position the floorboard to be installed at
an angle of 20-30° to the board that has
already been installed. When fitting the
floorboard, move it upwards and downwards
slightly, and push it forwards at the same
time. The floorboards will then click into
place.
b) In some cases, the floorboards
cannot be rotated when they are installed,
for example, underneath a doorframe. In this
case, the floorboards can also be installed
flat. IMPORTANT! For this, you require a
hammer and the SPECIAL FLEXURA TAPPING
BLOCK. NEVER USE A DIFFERENT TYPE OF TAPPING
BLOCK. This could cause damage to the
floorboards when they are installed.
You should not attempt to knock the Clic
joint into place with a single hit. For the
short edge, you must tap several times until
the floorboards click together completely.
For the long edge, you must work gradually:
you start tapping gently at the corner of
the floorboard until the joint has closed,
and repeat this action every 30 cm until the
entire long side of the floorboard has
clicked together completely.
2) Tools for installing the floor
In addition to the traditional tools for
installing wooden flooring, such as a
hammer, saw, crowbar or pinch bar with a
protruding edge (to be tapped on with the
hammer), and spacer blocks (8-10 mm), it is
imperative to use the FLEXURA TAPPING BLOCK
when installing the floor. If you use any
other type of tapping blocks, you will
certainly cause damage to the floorboards
during installation.
When shortening the floorboards, use a
fine-toothed hand saw, a jigsaw or a
crosscut saw. To achieve a clean cut, when
using a jigsaw you must ensure that the
patterned side is underneath, and when using
a hand saw or a cross-cut saw you must
ensure that the patterned side is on top.
3) Optimal preparation
The floor should preferably be installed so
that the incoming light is parallel with the
floorboards.
The ideal conditions are 15-20° C and a
relative humidity of 50-60%.
Check that:
- the doors can still be opened and
closed after installing the floor with
underfloor (minimum + 1cm)
- the doorframes may have to be
adapted in order to install the floor
underneath them
- the old skirting boards can be
removed
4) The base
The base must be perfectly clean and flat
before any floorboards are installed on top
of it. Any unevenness of more than 2mm per
meter must be removed. Depending on the
situation, the following cases are possible:
CONCRETE.
New construction:
- The moisture content of the concrete
must be less than 2.5 % (CM method). A
freshly poured cement screed (topping)
must dry for at least 1 week per cm of
thickness up to 4 cm, and for 2 weeks
per cm of thickness above 4 cm, and be
adequately ventilated. (A 6 cm thick
topping must therefore dry for at least
8 weeks). The moisture content of an
anhydrite floor may not exceed 0.5%.
- In the case of floor heating,
the moisture content must be less than
1.5 % (CM method). In this case, special
installation instructions are
applicable. See special section below.
Renovated construction:
- In the case of a damp-proof floor
covering (PVC, linoleum, etc), FLEXURA
may be installed on the existing floor
covering.
- In the case of a moisture-open floor
covering (carpet, needled felt, etc),
the existing floor covering must first
be removed.
WOODEN FLOOR:
- First remove any existing floor
covering.
- The wooden floor must be
sufficiently stable. Any loose parts
must be nailed down and, if necessary, a
leveling underfloor must be installed.
- The moisture content of the wood
must not exceed 10 %.
- The creeping space underneath the
wooden floor must be adequately
ventilated: first remove any obstacles
and provide adequate ventilation
(minimum of 4 cm² total ventilation
holes per m² floor).
- Install the new Flexura- floorboards
across the old boards.
5) The underfloor: The FLEXURA
UNDERFLOOR SYSTEM
It is imperative to use a leveling
underfloor in order to completely remove any
unevenness in the base. ONLY use the FLEXURA
UNDERFLOOR SYSTEM, a membrane consisting of
a damp-proof 150 µ PE membrane and a 3 mm PE
underfloor layer, fitted with an overlapping
flap and self-adhesive strip. Follow the
accompanying instructions when installing
this membrane.
Install the membrane, allowing it to run up
the wall. This is the surface onto which the
skirting board will finally be fixed, before
the membrane is cut off at this level.
6) Correct installation
Wood is the primary constituent of FLEXURA
floorboards. Since the humidity can vary in
a room due to seasonal differences, e.g.
between summer and winter, it is imperative
that the floor can expand in all directions.
This expansion can be as much as 2 mm per
meter. The larger the surface, the more
space is required for expansion. ALL the
sides of the floor must be able to expand or
contract. To enable this, an expansion gap
of at least 8 to 10 mm must be allowed for
at the walls.
This expansion gap must also be allowed for
around pipes or thresholds.
In the case of larger surface areas, a wider
gap must be allowed for, e.g. underneath a
double wall.
Take account of the fact that the floor may
move in one direction. Wherever possible,
provide expansion gaps, e.g. underneath
doors. These expansion gaps are covered by a
profile that is not secured to the wooden
flooring, but to the base floor.
It is preferable to install the floorboards
in the same direction as the longest wall,
so that the incoming light is parallel with
the floorboards (visually more attractive).
You can start installing the floor in one
corner or in the middle of the room. You can
also work from left to right, or from right
to left.
Always remember that the ‘tongue-in-groove
system” is the easiest way method of
installation.
7) The first three rows
8) The final row
Always ensure that there is a 10 mm
expansion gap between the final row and the
wall.
When doing this, remember that you have to
saw off the long edges of the final row of
floorboards.
Install these floorboards one at a time next
to the boards of the penultimate row and tap
the long edges together using the pinch bar
and hammer. Use the FLEXURA tapping block to
tap the short edges together.
9) Pipes
Ensure that in the row where there is a
pipe, the pipe is positioned exactly at the
transverse joint of two floorboards. Take a
drill bit that has the same diameter as the
pipe + 20 mm for the expansion. Click the
floorboards together at the short edge and
drill the hole so that the centre of the
hole is positioned where the two floorboards
join. Now install the floorboards as part of
the floor.
10) Underneath doorframes
Saw the floorboards so that after they have
been installed, there is an expansion gap
that is at least 10 mm wide.
When you cannot rotate the floorboard, use a
pinch bar or tapping block and hammer to tap
the boards together.
11) Finishing
After installing the floor, you can
immediately start walking on the floor and
begin finishing it off. This is one of the
major advantages of the UNICLIC system.
- Remove all spacer blocks
- Fix the skirting boards to the
plastic membrane overlapping up from the
floor.
- Never secure the skirting boards to
the floor (so that the floor can expand
and contract underneath the skirting
board).
- Finish the gaps around pipes with
rosettes.
- In places where profiles or skirting
boards cannot be placed, you must fill
the expansion gap with an elastic filler
paste.
12) Precautions
- Protect furniture and chair legs
with felt or plastic caps.
- Prevent dirt, water and sand from
being brought inside by placing a mat at
the door.
- Use wheelchairs with soft wheels,
suitable for hard floors.
- Ensure that the level of humidity in
the room is between 50 % and 65%. If
necessary, use an adequate humidifier.
13) Cleaning
- FLEXURA is based on a watertight
-glued HDF board that has a low level of
swelling.
- Despite the relatively
moisture-proof nature of FLEXURA
floorboards, excess water must be
immediately removed.
- WET CLEANING IS ABSOLUTELY
FORBIDDEN!
- The smooth surface of FLEXURA
floorboards is resistant to dust and
dirt. Dry cleaning is therefore best
carried out using a duster or vacuum
cleaner.
Slightly damp cleaning is possible by
wiping over with clean water, or with a
FLEXURA CLEANING PRODUCT that has been
diluted in water. (Never use other
cleaning products or detergents!)
- Only use a well wrung-out cloth.
Always wipe dry immediately until no
more moisture is visible on the floor.
- Use a little methanol or methylated
spirit to carefully remove stubborn
stains.
- Never use any scouring products!
Manual for installing FLEXURA floorboards on
top of ”low temperature” underfloor heating.
Unless otherwise expressly stated, the
general installation instructions described
above remain applicable.
The maximum permissible thermal resistance
(R) of a floorcovering on underfloor heating
is 0.15 (EN4725). In this respect, take
account of the sum total of the thermal
resistance of all materials that are
installed on top of floor heating: the
floorboards themselves and all underfloors
on which these are installed.
The respective values for FLEXURA
floorboards and FLEXURA underfloor are 0.075
and 0.053; total, 0.128.
Provide the necessary expansion gaps. Never
install lengths over 10 m.
The type of cement screeding and the way in
which it is applied, in combination with the
floor heating, must comply with the
instructions provided by the suppliers of
the screeding and the floor heating.
In order to obtain an even temperature
across the entire floor, the distance
between the heating elements may not exceed
30 cm. The heating engineer will determine
the depth of the elements.
The concrete floor or the cement screeding
must be DRY enough (maximum 1.5%, measured
using the CM method), before the floorboards
can be installed. In the case of anhydrite
screeding, this value is 0.5%.
In the case of newly applied screeding, you
must wait at least 21 days before switching
on the floor heating. The concrete and
screeding must dry without the aid of the
floor heating! The water temperature may
only be increased by 5°C per day over a
period of 2 weeks to 50% of capacity, and to
100% of capacity during the last 2 days
before installing the floor. This is also
applicable during the summer! A period of at
least 2 weeks must elapse between the start
of the heating up period and the
installation of the floor. When starting to
install the floorboards, the surface
temperature may not exceed 18°C. For this,
the water temperature must be decreased in
maximum steps of 5°C per day until this
surface temperature is reached.
In the case of a newly applied cement
screeding, with regard to the starting up
period, follow the guidelines stated by your
heating engineer who must provide you with
the completed warming-up protocol.
Also, when installing FLEXURA floorboards on
top of existing floor heating, the floor
temperature must not exceed 18°C. After
installing the floor, wait at least 24 hours
before gradually (5°C per day) restarting
the heating. The maximum permissible surface
temperature of the floor is 28°C. The
maximum hot water temperature is 50°C.
At the start and the end of a heating
period, the temperature of the water must
always be increased or decreased in steps of
5°C per day.
During the heating period, it must be
ensured that the relative air humidity in
the rooms is not too low. At 18-22°C, the
relative air humidity must be at least 50%.
The use of an adequate air humidification
system can help in this respect.
Always prevent the accumulation of heat due
to installing carpets on the floor or not
leaving adequate space between furniture and
the floor.
During the heating season, open joints may
appear.
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